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The easiest way to get above the older areas of downtown is an elevator ride up to the top of the Galata Tower.You'll be looking south towards Sultanahmet, so visit near sunset for the best images. Istanbul and environs were built along the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara, and the Black Sea.Istanbullus are accustomed to all of the indignities of big city life, including being stared at and photographed by tourists.

The merchants will tell you that a handmade carpet is a duty-free "handicraft". Don't buy a carpet anywhere that a guide has taken you; the shop will be paying the guide and his company a 40-percent commission.

A reputable shop that does not pay commissions to guides is Sengor Carpet (pronounced "Shangor"; say that "a friend of Oya's sent you").

Are you interested in slugging it out with the postcard photographers for conventional tourism images of the historic district? Interested in exploring the relationship among the city, the two seas, and the strait between the seas? Interested in showing the lifestyle of the latest generation of wealthy Turks? Interested in how people from poor villages in the southeast adapt to the cost and secular life of the big city? A lot of folks would suggest starting a tourist or photographic project in Istanbul in the mosques.

In Istanbul, however, urged on by some of the highest living costs in the world, the citizens seem to spend more time thinking about commerce.

In building modern Turkey, the government went to extraordinary lengths to "Turkify" the country.

The Greeks, Armenians, and Jews who were once common on the streets of Istanbul have been replaced with a flood of immigrants from other parts of Turkey.

Istanbul is a sprawling collection of villages, all of which have exploded into each other, rather than one coherent city.

Unless you have months on the ground, you will have to pick one or two Istanbuls and leave the rest for a future trip.

For the tourist, the practical effect of this change is that photographing religion in Istanbul means photographing Islam.

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